Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone

Download or read book Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone written by Rafael Steer and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 124 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.